The 1st Sweater Vest

Alright, so I have been pretty hesitant about making anything 'big' for awhile. If I start a sweater, I don't want to do it in pieces, so I start in a round and then get bored with it. This time I forfeited my comfortable circular needles and worked the sweater vest in two pieces (my attention span would not last for sleeves). Now that I finished this one, I can work on one for my debate partner (Brando) and have a men's pattern up here as well!

Materials:
Size 10 US Needles
1 skein Super Saver Red Heart Yarn (4 weight)

I do not remember my gauge. But this fits me with a 32 rib cage below the bust

Pattern:

BACK:
CO 58
[k2p2] Rpt between brackets for 8 rows
Stockette sts 80 rounds (or until desired length from armhole)
K2, 2 dec, K to end
P2, 2 dec, P to end
[K2, 1 dec, K to end, turn, P2, 1 dec, P to end] Rpt between brackets until 44 sts remain
Stockette st for 1-2 inches
K2, 1 inc, K to end
P2, 1 inc, P to end
Stockette st for 3 in (it's better for it to be longer when you sew it than to have it too short)
BO loosely

FRONT:
CO 58
[k2p2] Rpt between brackets for 8 rows
Stockette sts 80 rounds (or until desired length from armhole)
K 25, K2tog, K2, turn work
P2, P2tog, P to end
K2, 2 dec, K 19, 1 dec, K2
P2, 1 dec, P to last 4 sts, 1 dec, P2
Continue by decreasing one at the begining of the row and one at the end of the row until 10 sts remain.
Stockette st for ~5 inches (Once again, think long)
BO loosely
Repeat arm hole for the other side

BLOCK:
With the Red Heart yarn, take a iron, fill with water, and put on the lowest steam setting (even if it is not meant for acrilic fabric). Work out the rolling fabric and the arm holes especially.
Then just sew it together and viola! You have a sweater vest!

Double-Flap-Cap

Just a quick FYI:
If you haven't noticed by now, I don't regularly post a gauge?
"Why?" you may ask.
"Well," I shall reply, "I think that to go through endless conversions, only to have a weird fraction in the end that is incomprehensible is pointless. In stead, I think that everyone's project should be personalized to the type of yarn they prefer, needle size, and body size!"

So, without further ado... The pattern!



Materials:
Double pointed needles (Size needed to obtain gauge)
3-ply baby yarn (Pound of Love)

Numbers to know!
1. (Circumference of your head) - 2 inches = A
2. YOUR gauge. Not the gauge on the yarn packaging. YOUR knitting gauge. = B
3. A x B = C
4. C is the number of sts to cast on. If this number is divisible by 10, great! My coil pattern goes by 10's. But, if all else fails, make sure that C is divisible by 4.


1. CO C

2. P until piece measures 6 inches

3. CUFF STEP

• Fold your work in half (the row that you CO should be inside).
• Take the 1st CO loop and pull it before the 1st st on your needles.
• K2tog.
• Repeat this step (with every stitch correlating to the CO row aka in the same column) until all sts have been worked

4. COIL PATTERN
NOTE: This is in sets of 10's. So my coils are 6 sts and 4 sts. You can change the width of the coils to correspond to your particular number of sts.
For example, if you cast on 84 sts then your coils could be 2 sts and 2 sts or 10 sts by 2 sts.
For sets of 10: *K4, P6* Rpt for 4 rounds

• *K4, put 3 sts on holder behind work, P3, put 3 sts on left needle, P3*
• *K4, P6* Rpt for 4 rounds
• *Put 2 sts on a holder behind work, K2, put 2 sts on left needle, K2, P6*
• *K4, P6* Rpt for 4 rounds
• Rpt the bullited steps
  

5. Continue pattern until piece measures 6 inches

6. If you can, continue the coil pattern as you decrease. If you cannot, then just go back to the K and P columns.

7. PMs at 7,8, 9, or 10 equally placed segments

8. DECREASE

• *K/P to 2 before marker, k2tog, sl marker*
• K/P round
• Continue bulltied steps until less than 10 sts remain

9. Cut yarn, thread through remaining loops, pull tight and tie together.

Make-Me-Feel-Pretty-(Quick) Scarf

Materials:

Size 10 needles
Bernat Baby Coordinates, a little more than half a ‘ball’

Notes:

When knitting across the 2yo's, make sure that 2 stitches are created. This means a 'Kfb' kinda deal.
& I CO 20 sts in the picture

Pattern:

CO Any multiple of 4 LOOSELY
Row 1,2: K
Row 3: *K2tog, 2yo, K2tog* Rpt between * *
Row 4, 5 : K
Row 6: K2tog, 2yo, K2tog, K to last 5 sts, K2tog, 2yo, K2tog
Rpt Rows 4, 5, 6 to about 2-4 inches short of desired length. End on a completed Row 5.
Rpt Row 3.
Rpt Row 1
BO loosely

Block:

If using the yarn specified, use my little cheating blocking technique. Dampen the scarf COMPETELY and throw it in the dryer until completely dry.

Finishing:

Weave ribbon through the holes and tie/hot glue at the ends into pretty bows.

1-Hour Preemie Bootie

Needles: 3 US dp
Yarn: 3 ply baby yarn
CO 22 sts
P 3 rnds
K 2 rnds
P 2 rnds
K 2 rnds
K15, turn
*P 8, turn
K8, turn*
Rpt between ** 5 times
PU 6 sts along side, K7
K7, PU 6 sts along side, K to the end
P 3 rnds
K2 rnds
P3 rnds
K2, ssk, K8, k2tog, K6, ssk, K8, k2tog, K2
K to end
K2, ssk, K6, k2tog, K6, ssk, K6, k2tog, K2
K to end
K2, ssk, K4, k2tog, K6, ssk, K4, k2tog, K2
Graft remaining sts together

Disappearing Finger Mittens

Disappearing Finger Mittens!
Materials
Size 3 double pointed needles
3-ply baby yarn
Gauge: 7 sts/inch
NOTES
-CHECK YOUR GAUGE!!!!! If you need any help with a different gauge or size, comment and I'll convert it for you! You put a lot of effort into this, make sure everything is right!
-This is for MY hand. I have a 6 inch wrist circumference, and a 7 inch palm! If your hand is smaller, CO less, if your hand is larger CO more. This is why some of my directions are general.
-When I say 'Kfb': use your favorite increase! Who am I to tell you different?
-Straight needles: On the fingers, I said ‘straight needles’ so that it would be understood not to work in a round
CUFF
CO 44 sts,
Join in a round
Row 1: *K2, P2* Rpt between * until end of row
Rpt Row 1 until cuff measures 2 inches.
BOTTOM PALM
Row 1: Kfb, K1, Kfb, pm, K21, inc1, K to end (5 sts before marker)
Row 2: K
Row 3: Kfb, K3, kfb, sl marker, K22, inc 1, K to end (7 sts before marker)
Row 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14: K
Row 5: Kfb, K5, kfb, sl marker, K23, inc 1, K to end (9 sts before marker)
Row 7: Kfb, K7, kfb, sl marker, K24, inc 1, K to end (11 sts before marker)
Row 9: Kfb, K9, kfb, sl marker, K25, inc 1, K to end (13 sts before marker)
Row 11: Kfb, K11, kfb, sl marker, K26, inc 1, K to end (15 sts before marker)
Row 13: Kfb, K13, kfb, sl marker, K27, inc 1, K to end (17 sts before marker)
Row 15: K44, inc 1, K to end
Row 16: K45, inc 1, K to end
Row 17: K46, inc 1, K to end
Row 18: K
Rpt Row 18 until piece reaches the webbing of the thumb
PALM
Row 1: Place sts 1-17 on a holder, M1, K to end
Rpt Row 1 until piece measures ½ inch (Or just below knuckles)
(This is where I changed colours in the pictures)
Row 2: *K1, P1, K1, P1, K1, P1, K2tog, P1* Rpt between * 5 times, K1, P1, K2tog, P2tog
Row 3: *K1, P1* Rpt between * until end of row
Rpt Row 3 until piece measures 1 inch (Or just beyond knuckles)
BO all LOOSELY
FINGERS
Pu 23 sts at the bottom of the knuckle rib on straight needles.
Row 1: *K1, P1* Rpt between * until 1 st remaining, K1
Row 2: *P1, K1* Rpt between * until 1 st remaining, P1
Rpt Row 1
CO 25 sts and join in a round
Row 3: *K1, P1* Rpt between * to end
Rpt Row 3 until finger rib measures 1 inch
Row 4: K
Rpt Row 4 until piece reaches tip of middle finger
Row 5: K2tog
Rpt Row 5 until 6 sts remain
Cut yarn, thread yarn through remaining sts, create a button loop with excess yarn, and secure.
THUMB
Pu stiches on holder and 2-3 sts across gap to fill any holes
Row 1: K
Rpt Row 1 to tip of the thumb
Row 2: K2tog
Rpt Row 2 until 3-5 sts remain
Cut yarn, thread yarn through remaining sts, secure.
FINISHING
Weave in any loose ends
Sew on a button on the cuff or use some spare yarn to create your own!

Introduction

Hello everyone!
I'm Kathryn and I am ecstatic to share some of my patterns with ya'll! I've just gotten to the point where following patterns has become a bore... Praise (or condemn) the short attention span!
Anywho, I'll have my first pattern up soon and then more will follow! I will also post my favorite patterns and blog about my current projects.